Hi In March 2016 I received a County Court claim form from Shoesmiths for a HSBC Account for £8000 for a credit card I had defaulted on in 2013 acting on behalf of ARROW GLOBAL. I defended the claim and sent a CCA request to Arrow global they were unable to provide any documentation not even a reconstituted agreement and as a result I received a letter from them stating the ccj claim was dropped and all collection activities would cease. In April 2019 will be six years old and drops off my credit rating and I’m trying desperately hard to get my life back six years later and get a mortgage. Last week out of the blue I got a warning from Equifax my rating had changed I checked and I found Another debt collection firm had got a CCJ for another debt from 2013. They had brought this account and been sitting on it for the last couple of years doing nothing then the claim forms were sent to my old address and I never received them. Even though they could have easily found my new address. I’m aware I could still have defended this but I had enough to pay it so I settled within the 30 days. I understand this is a tactic they use to get CCJs and I think it’s disgusting the courts allow it. I’m sure the Bailiffs would have had no problem finding me. The Arrow debt for HSBC I could never afford to pay. If they do the same trick send CCJ forms to my old address I will never know until it’s to late. What are they likely to do, they have already had one go through the court and failed. I could contact them and give them my new address details without acknowledging the debt but is this then just going to put the idea in their mind. Is this debt really just sitting there and all collection activities have really ceased , find it a bit odd they haven’t sold it on or maybe they can’t but HSBC knew they had no agreements before they sold it to them. Please don’t think I’m just trying to get out of this debt but i have been in debt management and paying all my old debts the last six years and almost paid back everything. I just want to get on with my life but this is in the back ground now. What if anything are they up to

I've been getting bills in order, cutting out the crap like putting phones on sim only canceling gym memberships which aren't used and the like. I've a few debts to deal with and will be getting a copy of my files from all three agencies shortly but one sent a letter recently and I'm fairly certain 6yrs have passed since I last paid anything or communicated with them. Debt is £2686.03 originally with Littlewoods but the letters have been coming from Lowell, one prior to this was an "amazing offer of 60% off" if I settled. I'm assuming they've also figured out 6yrs have passed? Never had a CCJ for this one to my knowledge. Would I just need to send the statute barred letter from the library or is there a particular path I need to follow ? Thanks, Rob

How to clean your computer I have a dirty secret. I've never cleaned my computer. Sure, I've dusted my monitor, but I haven't taken off the cover or tried to reach the crumbs lurking inside my keyboard. And I honestly don't know the difference between pressurized air dusters and compressed air cleaners. "Your computer could fry if you don't keep it clean," says Jonathon Millman, chief technology officer for Hooplah Interactive. Whether it's a desktop or laptop/notebook computer, dust and lint can clog the cooling vents. This can cause your computer's brain—the central processing unit (CPU)—to heat up. And heat is the biggest cause of component failure in computers. Regular cleaning could save you costly maintenance fees down the road. Follow the five simple steps in the cleanup and maintenance routine below to keep your computer and accessories looking shiny and new. It's an easy, do-it-yourself solution to help them run smoothly and last longer. Preparation You'll need: Standard (flat-tip) and/or Phillips screwdriver Can of compressed air (available from computer dealers or office-supply stores) Cotton swabs (do not use a cotton ball) Rubbing alcohol Soft, lint-free cloths, paper towels, or anti-static cloths Water Safety glasses (optional) Important: Always turn your computer off and disconnect it from the power source before you begin any of these steps. Step 1: Inside the case If you see dust or other debris accumulating around the vents of your desktop or laptop, you can bet there's more inside—and it's only going to cause trouble. To remove it, you'll need to open the case. That may sound more intimidating than it really is. Before you begin, of course, make sure the computer is turned off and disconnected from the power source. One more consideration: Manufacturers' policies vary, but, in some cases, opening your computer case may void your warranty. You may even encounter a warning sticker on the case. Review your warranty terms before continuing. For desktop computers. Desktop computer manufacturers employ a variety of fastening mechanisms to secure the case. Face the back panel: Modern cases typically use two or more small knobs that you can turn by hand, or buttons that you press in, to release a side panel or the entire shell of the case. Others may require you to remove two or more slotted or Phillips screws. If in doubt, consult your owner's manual for specific instructions. For laptop and notebook computers. Set the computer upside down on a table or other stable surface. (You may want to place a towel or paper under the computer to prevent scratches and scuffs.) Remove the battery. On most laptops, the vents on the underside will be grouped on a removable panel, secured to the case with several screws. Typically, these are very small Phillips-type screws, which may be of different lengths. Remove them, and be sure to keep track of which goes where. After you're inside either your desktop or laptop, touch as little as possible inside the computer—keep your fingers away from cards and cords. Look for any dust bunnies or other bits of fluff in the nooks and crannies. Pick these out carefully with tweezers or a cotton swab. Blow compressed air around all of the components and along the bottom of the case, keeping the nozzle at least four inches away from the machine. Blow air into the power supply box and into the fan. Try to aim the stream of pressurized air in such a way that it blows debris out of and away from crevices and recesses, rather than driving it deeper in. Safety glasses are a good idea, too, to keep the flying dust out of your eyes. Take particular care when blowing the delicate fans. Overspinning them with excessive pressure can crack a blade or damage the bearings. Position the compressed air can well away, and use short bursts of air rather than a steady blast. As a precaution, you might also carefully immobilize the fan blades with your fingertip or a cotton swab while using the air can. Lastly, blow air into the floppy disk, CD or DVD drives, and I/O ports—but again, not too aggressively. Wipe the inside of the cover with a lightly moistened cloth, and dry it before replacing it. Millman recommends doing this every three months if your case sits on the floor, if you have pets that shed, or if you smoke. Otherwise, every six to eight months is fine. Step 2: Outside the case Run a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol around all of the openings on the outside of your case. Give them one swipe with the damp end of the swab and one swipe with the dry end. Do this as often as you clean the inside of your computer. Step 3: Keyboard Turn the keyboard upside down and gently shake it. Most of the crumbs and dust will fall out. Take a can of compressed air and blow into and around the keys. Next, take a cotton swab and dip it in rubbing alcohol. It should be damp, but not dripping wet. Run the cotton swab around the outside of each key. Rub the tops of the keys. Don't be stingy with the swabs. Discard them when they start to get dirty, and switch to a fresh one. If you have a laptop, follow the same procedure but take extra care with your machine—treat it as gently as you would a carton of fresh eggs. If your laptop has a touchpad, use the damp swap to wipe it clean, as well. Do this keyboard cleanup monthly. It's tempting to use a vacuum cleaner to suck the debris out of the keyboard and other parts of the computer, but technicians warn that it can create a static electrical charge that can actually damage the computer's sensitive electronics. Worried about spills? If a spill happens, immediately turn off your computer, disconnect the keyboard, and flip it over. While the keyboard is upside down, blot the keys with a paper towel, blow compressed air between the keys, and leave it to air dry overnight. Check to ensure that all traces of moisture have evaporated before using the keyboard again. Laptop spills need more attention because liquid can easily penetrate the keyboard and damage internal parts. For laptop spills, immediately turn off the computer and remove any external power source and other items plugged into it. Turn the laptop over, remove the battery, and then bring it to your nearest repair center to check for internal damage. Simply blowing compressed air into the keyboard and letting your computer air dry upside down overnight aren't enough, because liquids can sit inside a laptop for days. For all spills, be aware that anything other than plain water may cause severe damage, and never attempt to dry a keyboard or laptop in a microwave or conventional oven. Step 4: Mouse Disconnect the mouse from your computer. Rub the top and bottom of your mouse with a paper towel dipped in rubbing alcohol. Scrape hard-to-remove grime with your fingernail. If you have an optical mouse, ensure that no lint or other debris obscures the light-emitting lens on the underside of the mouse. If you use a mechanical mouse, open the underside of the mouse and remove the ball. (In most cases, you simply need to rotate the plastic ring encircling the ball one-quarter turn counterclockwise.) Wash the ball with water, and let it air dry. To clean inside a mechanical mouse, dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and rub all of the interior components, paying particular attention to the little rollers, where gunk tends to collect. Finally, blow compressed air into the opening and ensure that the interior is dry. Replace the ball and the cover. Clean your mouse monthly. Step 5: Monitor For liquid-crystal display (LCD) laptop and flat-panel monitor screens, slightly moisten a soft, lint-free cloth with plain water. Microfiber cloths are excellent for this purpose. Avoid using paper towels, which can scratch monitor surfaces. Don't spray liquid directly onto the screen—spray the cloth instead. Wipe the screen gently to remove dust and fingerprints. You can also buy monitor cleaning products at computer-supply stores. For glass CRT (television-style) monitors, use an ordinary household glass cleaning solution. Unless your manufacturer recommends differently, don't use alcohol or ammonia-based cleaners on your monitor, as these can damage anti-glare coatings. And never try to open the housing of a CRT monitor. Capacitors within can hold a dangerous electrical charge—even after the monitor has been unplugged. Clean the monitor weekly. Finally, make sure that everything is dry before you plug your computer back in. Article adapted from an original article written by Alyson Munroe.

I'm currently divorced but have recently noted from the divorce documentation that a Clean Break Consent Order is needed to ensure my financial future is protected from any claims my ex wife wants to submit. There are many online websites that can help, for a fee, but I want to do this myself if possible - is there any specific forms I need to complete or download since I cannot locate any on the internet. any help appreciated.

I found this info on the interestrateripoff thread http://www.nytimes.com/2015/11/28/us/politics/bill-gates-expected-to-create-billion-dollar-fund-for-clean-energy.html?ref=business&_r=0 I hope we are seeing the start to tackling the reliance on fossil fuels which means we could have cheap energy which is cohesive for society. It also addresses the conflicts in the name of oil and gas and countries ultimately holding us to ransom.

Hi folks, new to the forum and need some advice please. History: I went into my bank to get an overdraft last year and was rejected as my account wasnt old enough and they suggested to wait a year and also open up a savings account to improve my chances. Which I did. So I went in a couple of weeks ago thinking id done everything to get an overdraft only to be told that they STILL couldnt offer me an overdraft. So I was advised to check my credit file to see why I wasnt being accepted seeing that my history with the bank is excellent and Ive made no searches and done nothing to warrant rejection from my own bank. I proceeded to check Experian and there was nothing there to show anything was wrong except that I had no credit agreements and my bank account was only a year old. So I then decided to check out Equifax and boom! On my previous address search theres a number of defaults for someone who has the same 1st name, different surname and same DOB. I literally couldnt believe my eyes! Theres nothing in the financial links, CIFA or anything else. Just in the credit agreement section under previous addresses. Obviously the score with Equifax was shocking. I also noticed a 'trace enquiry' for this guy for the same address. So i contacted Equifax and they advised me to submit a query, which I did and Im currently awaiting a response. Im convinced its the same with CallCredit as I failed the security questions, so awaiting the code they send you so I can find out. My credit is ruined and I just dont understand how this has happened. Im not even sure if its fraudulant activity as the surnames are different. Im totally confused and angry as Im wanting to purchase in the next year and a half and this has set me right back. So my questions are as follows: 1) How the hell did someone else get on my credit file? 2) Why would a debt collector give someone elses details to the credit agency and the agency accepting it? 3) What are the chances of these defaults being taken off? 4) If they do get wiped what are the chances of them coming back? 5) In the event these do not get taken off what is my next move? 6) If the info gets wiped how long do I have to wait before the score goes up to a reasonable level where I will have no issues in getting credit? Im sure Ill have more queries in the future but any answers, advice would be greatly appreciated. Im hoping these debt collectors see sense and realise theyve made a huge mistake. Thanks in advance.

After sticking my head in the sand for way too long I've started on the road to clean up my credit history / outstanding debts. Anyone had any dealings with the below providers / how easy will it be to setup repayments with them? Tower Credit (CCJ) - Paid Capital One - £361 Motormile Finance - £221 + 2 others (not sure on the figures yet) Payday Express - £135 - Waiting for an email back, will repay in full. Lowell - £337 Express Gifts Limited - £93 - Will repay in full, just need to find who the debt was sold to. Cash Genie - Huge interest on this one (Debt Value: £2,851.00) however they'll reduce it to £491 - Contact has been made with these, just waiting for a reply (offering to pay back £61.37 a month) Trying to deal with the ones making the most noise to begin with, those being Motormile Finance and Lowell, the others are quiet at the moment and I'll deal with those at a later date.

Hi All. I have a bunch of debts that have been hanging around for years under a free debt management plan. I want to clear these up now. Firstly, my main concern is that the totals currently 'outstanding' exceed the original borrowed in the first place by quite a while. Also, the debts have been passed between a number of agencies and in some cases I don't even know what the original debt is anymore. I'd also like to note that these collection companies have added plenty of money on the totals too so maybe I need to request a statement from them AND one from the original lender if I can work out how they are? In short, HELP! So here is my plan / questions: Can I / should I contact all the companies listed on my credit file and ask for a breakdown / statement? Is this a subject access request? Can I even send them one if they are not the original loan company? I've attached a screenshot of the debts I am aware of / with my management plan in case there is any specific action I should take based upon the info / people. // I removed the screenshot - realised I had account numbers in there. Whoops! Many thanks in advance.

Please sign and promote this petition: https://www.change.org/petitions/prime-minister-this-petition-is-to-clean-up-the-financial-enforcement-industry-by-creating-a-public-authority-whose-members-are-selected-by-public-vote This petition is to set up a publicly run body overseeing all debt recovery personnel, debt recovery businesses and government financial penalty issuing authorities. The public body members will be selected by a public vote. The public run body will have full authority to grant licences to, investigate, punish or dismiss any court appointment bailiff, debt recovery agent, enforcement officer or their businesses. The public body will have complete authority and autonomy from government or judicial interference to make decisions based on its own findings on any persons or entities working within the UK who are responsible for collecting monies or issuing financial penalties. The public body will oversee all debt recovery businesses and people within these businesses. The public body will oversee and contribute to regulation on the industry and licences to trade. The purpose of the agency is to: · Ensure ‘fit and proper’ people are working within the industry. · Create a culture of ethical behaviour within the industry. · Create transparency within the industry. · Regulate practice that is deemed publicly fit. · Be an authority for the public to raise serious concerns to and have them investigated as an authority. · Grant compensation to people who are caused serious issues through regulatory negligence or unfit practices. To impose fines upon, investigate, punish or dismiss these persons or companies who are not working within the guidelines set out by the public authority.

I came across this having seen it on the BBC Breakfast news. I've just moved into a place where it seems passing cars, especially in the evenings, think that passing Burger wrappings out of the window and cans or anything else they don't want to take home is acceptable. It's not. I spent 30 yrs+ on a private estate where this kind of thing didn't happen, we certainly didn't wake up in the mornings to find a heap of old car parts or tyres left or building rubble fly-tipped. We do here and it's disgraceful. What is it that makes it acceptable to dump rubbish on someone else's space? These guys seem hell bent on making sure it doesn't go on - let's help them. http://www.cleanupbritain.org/ We all need to educate our children that spitting on the street where others walk, dropping chewing-gum on the floors which we all walk on, dog fouling (don't get me going!) and throwing wrappers, fag packets or anything else onto other people's streets is just not acceptable and should be disposed of responsibly. In some countries you'd go to prison for dropping litter, let's help these people help us enjoy our environment. Thanks A1

hi i have sent all 5 of my creditors a request asking why i owe the alledged amount i dont dispute owing them some money but not to th eoutlandish claims they have! one i do totally disagree with is sky as i was told when i took it out " i had to have the HD pack it was the only one they did" when i rang sky a few weeks later then confirmed i had been misold and that i could cancel with no charge i nopw havr landed a bill 2 years later with no propr communication for £400! one thing i did want to check is that when i have sent the second letter requesting deatils of debt if i either dont get a response or they cant supply what do i do next?? how do i get these debts removed? also i challenegd my natwest debt orginally 400 now 1700 and they stated "natwest state these charges are fair and accurate" even though they had picked an old address i lived at 5 years before i even opened the account to lend all statements to (conicidentally my ex husbands address) im at the end of my testher i just dont no what happens next.Please help me!

Clean Reinstall - Factory OEM Windows 7 How to Clean Reinstall a Factory OEM Windows 7 Published by gregrocker 15 Mar 2012 Clean Reinstall - Factory OEM Windows 7 How to Clean Reinstall a Factory OEM Windows 7 Information A clean reinstall is often better than getting a new computer since most PC's come larded with sponsor's bloatware and useless factory utilities that have much better versions built into Windows 7. For this reason many tech enthusiasts clean reinstall using the Product Key on the COA sticker affixed to machine. 1. Download the latest official Win7 installer ISO with SP1 for your licensed version. 2. Burn ISO to DVD or write to USB flash stick (minimum size of 4GB required) using =General%20Tips"]Windows 7 USB-DVD Download Tool. 3. Back up your files externally by dragging your named User account or active User folders to another HD, external drive, flash stick or disk. Don't forget to export your browser bookmarks first. If your email is stored on computer, Google how to back up mail and account settings. Backup Quickbooks 2010+ Company files from User/Public/Documents, google your version's file location, or run a QB backup. De-authorize I-Tunes. • For unbootable Windows copy data out externally using free Paragon rescue disk or Copy & Paste - in Windows Recovery Console. 4. Make your Recovery Disks so you have a path back to factory condition, following the steps given in your PC's setup literature or in the Manual located on the Support Downloads webpage for your model computer. As an alternative to Recovery Disks you can save a Windows 7 Backup Image or Macrium Image of the entire HD. • In addition to Recovery Disks some OEM Backup and Recovery options include making a drivers disk to have as an additional backup to the latest drivers on the model's Support Downloads webpage. 5. Run an audit of hardware and software including installed Product Keys using Belarc Advisor. 6. Write down the Product Key from COA sticker located on back or side of PC tower, bottom or under battery of notebook. Make sure you get the characters correct as this is a main cause of activation failure. You can input or Skip the key during install then afterwards activate at Control Panel>System, which may require a quick robocall. The COA sticker looks like this: 7. Gather your program installers. For those lacking disks, you may find them on the program's Support Downloads webpage. Favorite pre-installed apps may be found on the Downloads webpage for your model computer or manufacturer-provided Apps Disk. Others may be found by googling. Some pre-installed apps may not be available for clean reinstall - HP owners see additional note below. ● Many of the favorite apps needed and desired for reinstall are available in the terrific app Ninite - Install or Update Multiple Apps at Once. 8. Unplug all other HD's and peripherals, Boot the Windows 7 installer, choose Custom Install, then Drive Options (Advanced) to Delete all partitions not needed, repartition as desired following illustrated steps given here: Clean Install Windows 7. ● If you have a Recovery or OEM tools partition, these may not run after clean reinstall so be sure to make your Recovery Disks. ● You can wait until afterwards to see if Recovery or (Diagnostics) Tools partitions will run from boot to decide if you want to delete those partitions and recover the space into C or elsewhere (using Step 3 here). ● If you don't want to keep any partitions but also don't have a new partition scheme in mind, just click Next after Deleting all to let the installer create and format your installation partition for you. ● Until Windows 7 installer is updated with USB3 drivers use a USB2 port for flash install or load the USB3 driver from the PC's Support Downloads webpage when prompted during install. If you're prompted for drivers for any other reason during install it almost always means a bad installer. 9. The installer is mostly driver-complete, with newer arriving quickly via optional Windows Updates. Just in case, have your Wireless or Ethernet LAN driver on flash stick or CD so you can install it to get online quickly - these can be found on the Support Downloads webpage for your model computer . Then enable hardware driver auto-updating, install all Important and Optional Updates. 10. Any drivers still missing in Device Manager after several rounds of Updates can be found on the Support Downloads webpage for your model computer or device, along with possibly needed hotfixes which you can also wait to see if you need. Driver Install - Device Manager I would not replace any drivers given by the installer or optional Updates unless performance problems point to that specfic driver. We can help you troubleshoot these issues. • Unknown Devices are often SID card readers, or can be traced using Hardware Identification. • Co-processor, USB and Storage controllers are elements of the chipset. 11. Install programs slowly over time to gauge performance changes after each. You can roll back most any Program installs or Update(s) using System Restore. 12. Don't let any programs write themselves into msconfig>Startup as they slow startup, become freeloaders on your RAM/CPU and can spy on you. ● As illustrated in Startup Programs - Change uncheck everything except AV, gadgets (aka "sidebar"), Sync program in msconfig>Startup. ● Then after reboots do the same in msconfig>Services after checking "Hide All MS Services." ● Check back with both lists periodically to see if anything writes itself back in and turn it off in its Program Preferences or Uninstall the freeloader. ● If you have any questions about a listing, Google it to learn what it does. ● However I would not install Google programs which are relentless spyware. Only use the stable Google search box in IE9 or Firefox and don't stay signed into any Google web apps. ● You can greatly diminish spying and reduce tracking ads - periodically Opt Out of Network Advertising. 13. Use a lightweight free AV like Microsoft Security Essentials which works perfectly with the Windows 7 Firewall. If you're prone to infection add the paid real-time protection for Malwarebytes, otherwise run its excellent free scanner monthly. 14. To copy your files into the new install, open the storage folder, open each User folder (Documents, Pictures, etc.), from the Organize tab Select All, then drag the group to the corresponding folder on Explorer bar at left. Wait until the bar stops unfolding and hypertext confirms the copy location before releasing the left click. Do not copy over hidden AppData folders from User Accounts as these are a corruption path. ● The User's Favorites folder will populate IE Bookmarks. Import another browser's Bookmarks from HTML file backed up previously. Copy Quickbooks and other Program data into it's default folder location. 15. Activation at Control Panel>System may require a robocall to MS the first time to record your hardware signature in their servers. It will always work as long as you install the correct version and input the key accurately. 16. When finished, clean and order the HD perfectly using state-of-the-art free CCleaner "Run Cleaner" button and Registry tab. I recommend Puran free boot-time defragger + Full Disk Check after checking Intelligent Optimizer on Additional Operations tab for state-of-the-art defrag which includes System Files. Periodically run these as well as a full scan with free Malwarebytes and SUPERAntiSpyware. ● Avoid spyware tracking cookies placing interest ads by Opting Out of Network Advertising. 17. Finally, save a Windows 7 Backup image externally so you never have to reinstall again - just reimage the HD or it's replacement using DVD/Repair CD with the stored image. ● You can keep your User folders backed up to the cloud, sync'd to your other devices, even accessed on the web using Skydrive free 7gb of storage with each Windows Live ID: Sync Any Folder to Your SkyDrive Account 18. Henceforth if required to contact your OEM Tech Support do not tell them you Clean Reinstalled but troubleshoot as if you have the factory install. Otherwise OEM's may refuse to support Clean Reinstall but cannot void Hardware warranty. If you ship the unit back for repair under Hardware warranty save a Windows 7 backup image and then run Factory Recovery beforehand. Information Special notes to HP owners: HP Recovery will now do a Minimized OS Recovery when booting from F11, which retains only the OS, Recovery Manager, HP Support Asst, and HP Wireless LAN. This is as close to a clean reinstall as you can get without using a retail DVD with COA key. ● If you clean reinstall only to C and leave all other partitions intact, F11 Recovery key should still work later if you need it. ● You can also Extract HP 3rd Party Software from RecovCD. ● Problems with volume control lighting and HP Quick Launch buttons have been dealt with here where you can also get further support. Information Special notes to Dell owners: If your Recovery partition is triggered at boot from the F8 System Recovery Options then it will no longer run after clean reinstall, so make your Recovery disks first, delete Recovery partition during reinstall. ●The Dell Diagnostics tools stored on the OEM Tools partition often will run from boot but not from the OS after Reinstall, or you can download a bootable CD/flash stick version of them from Dell's site to replace it . Information Special Note to Sony Vaio Owners: Software which enables Fkey functions and illumination must be reinstalled from the Sony Support Downloads webpage in the order as shown here: Function keys don't work after clean install - Windows 7 Forums

that is the question well its Friday so I better had. wish me luck folks I will emerge triumphant in a little while....I hope

Hi, Im new to the forum and have joined for help. My credit file and score has been obliterated by payday loans and defaults. I am about to engage in settling and cleaning up my credit file. I figured i can negotiate with payday companies and all i want is to propose a reduced settlement figure in return for settlement of the debt and my credit record updated accordingly. I intend to make an offer and have them send me a letter accepting the offer and agreeing to update my record. Without receiving this letter i will not proceed. Is this the best way to move forward. Have it in writing so I can prove they agreed to my requests incase they dont actually do it? Also is there a time scale i can enforce from settling the account until my credit record is updated? Cheers

Looking for a bit of advice here. Am going for a mortgage in October and am i the process of trying to clean my credit file. There are a couple of defaults that i have no idea i had so i have challenged them without saying i owe the debt using a CCA letter. Now 2 others were disputed back in 2009 by myself. One with Virgin media the other with Monument. I have now again sent CCA Letters to them but i am now kinda thinking that i have also accepted the debt as i have refered back to 2009 in the letter. Have i shot myself in the foot with this? Would it be better to let leave alone or fight? Also i have 2 defaults registered with 2 different comapnies t mobile and lowell for 1 debt can this be correct? Any advice on the best way to clean things up will be appriciated.