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Used car - Not fit for purpose


BLZ
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Hello,

 

I've searched this forum for similar threads and I found a quite lot,

 

however my problem is slightly different.

 

I bought a car (Honda) for £700 with 110k miles on the clock, 2002 reg.

 

The reason for the low price is because it has part service history only,

however I've checked the car and test driven it, and apart from some corrosion it was OK.

It came with 12 months MOT, no advisory items at all.

 

I bought this car on Monday (17/02/2014) and it had to be recovered on Wednesday (19/02/2014) after 60 miles driven by me.

 

the engine and lights started dying whilst I was driving on the motorway,

the battery light came on and both low beam headlight bulbs were fried,

and the dash looked like a Christmas tree,

ABS and SRS lights flickering etc.

 

Initially I assumed it was just a dead battery,

but the reason for the breakdown was actually a faulty alternator,

it caused an overcharge before its final failure

and that caused damage to the bulbs and possibly the battery.

 

Luckily I managed to exit the motorway and stop safely (without low beam lights) in a petrol station

where I was assisted by my insurance's breakdown recovery.

 

It was 10pm the vehicle had to be towed as the alternator could not keep the engine running,

I was asked where should the car be towed to.

 

I asked to be towed to my home address as all garages were closed

and I was just 5 miles from home a

nd I was only rapidly thinking in getting a remanufactured alternator and fit it myself.

 

Obviously the breakdown assistance told me that it was my responsibility to get the car moved to a garage later if I wanted so.

 

As I bought this vehicle without any warranty I thought to myself that it was pointless to move it to the dealer

and then do a 10 mile return trip to home.

 

I'm a newcomer in the UK, and I'm not completely aware of the law,

 

then I started to search about the minimum cover that a dealer should provide

and then I found something about the sales of goods act.

 

I decided to call the dealer and

 

the guy have agreed to fix the alternator: "ok sir, bring the car to us so we can take a look at it".

I must admit that it was fair enough,

however I then explained that the car could not start and be driven as it would die after 5 minutes.

 

He told me that he can tow the car to his garage but I have to pay a £40 charge.

I insisted that it's not fair that I buy a car and it dies 2 days/60 miles after.

 

He told my that he was being fair, and that if he wishes he does NOT have to repair the car because I didn't buy any extended warranty.

 

I just told him that I'll speak to him later.

 

I have decided to go to the CAB on Monday to seek some advice,

but I would like to know what is your opinion about this,

do I have the right to ask for a possible refund?

 

I mean, he's willing to repair the vehicle but not willing to pay for the 10 mile tow,

and I seriously believe that even after the alternator repair,

the battery may eventually fail as it was affected by the overcharge and it's completely drained.

 

Besides this, I've been spending £10 per day on public transport so I can get to work.

I don't know what to do really... :(

Edited by BLZ
It's 110K and not 11K
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If you charge the battery up over night and drive in day light you will get there, and let him repair it.

 

 

 

Thanks for the tip, I actually thought about that but I cannot assure that the battery's condition is good enough to be fully charged and fully drained again in less than 1 hour, that will definitely kill the battery (if it's not dead already). And if the engine dies again in the meantime, the breakdown assistance will probably refuse me another recovery because I will have to report the same fault, that's my only concern.

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You've only got to drive 10 miles. If you drive after "Rush Hour" with the everything turned off , lights, heated rear window, interior fan and CD player.

An alternator can fail at any time and after 110,000 miles that is to be expected.

The car dealer has and is doing all that he can to assist you.

There have been loads of threads on here where the trader has done nothing.

You will be fine

 

Good to see your driving well within the speed limit.... As opposed to my 3 daughters.

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I thought the OP said 11k miles? I must admit, that sounds too good to be true!

 

Anyway, I agree with the above advice although I will point out 1 thing. The dealer seems to be suggesting that because you didn't take out an extended warranty, he dosn't have to repair. Well that's hog wash. A warranty is merely an extension of your statutory rights under the SOGA. If the fault was present at the point of sale, he has to repair it.

 

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Sailor sam your corret, I just looked at #1 again.

2002 plate, 11K miles £700.

 

Yep "Rack 'em and stack 'em boys". Even I could sell them all day and I'm in the building game. LOL

OP must have got the miles wrong....... I did but I blame the beer or two (may be 3 or 4 or perhaps more? Who knows? I've lost count now.)

Regards F16

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Well, I have some updates, first of all the battery is completely dead, it recharges (with mains power of course), but it does not keep the engine running for more than 15 mins.

I spoke to the CAB and I was told that the repair has to be made at absolutely no cost for me, and that includes any vehicle recovery. If I'm not happy with it I can ask for a refund by sending a letter. As an alternative I can pay the £40 charge, and then send a letter using one of the CAB templates and request compensation for the recovery fee, as the repair has to be made at no extra cost. If the dealer refuses to pay, I don't have other choice than rejecting the vehicle and request a chargeback to the bank, that's what I was told by the adviser.

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Once the engine is running, the battery "does not keep the engine running", the alternator then takes over of powering the electrics so I don't see any reason why you should'nt follow the advice already given. Obviously you make it clear to the seller that you will be driving the car back to him under his advice knowing the car has a fault. If you go down the alternative route by expecting/demanding the trader compensates you for the recovery fee, then I can see you ending up in a prolonged dispute. The same applies to rejecting the car at this stage.

 

I am not suggesting that you do not have a possible case under the SOGA but it's far better than to compromise with the trader than have to resort in using the SOGA.

 

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Once the engine is running, the battery "does not keep the engine running", the alternator then takes over of powering the electrics so I don't see any reason why you should'nt follow the advice already given. Obviously you make it clear to the seller that you will be driving the car back to him under his advice knowing the car has a fault. If you go down the alternative route by expecting/demanding the trader compensates you for the recovery fee, then I can see you ending up in a prolonged dispute. The same applies to rejecting the car at this stage.

 

I am not suggesting that you do not have a possible case under the SOGA but it's far better than to compromise with the trader than have to resort in using the SOGA.

 

 

+1 to the above. It's a £700 car, things will go wrong, play hardball now it could get very involved!

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Once the engine is running, the battery "does not keep the engine running", the alternator then takes over of powering the electrics so I don't see any reason why you should'nt follow the advice already given. Obviously you make it clear to the seller that you will be driving the car back to him under his advice knowing the car has a fault. If you go down the alternative route by expecting/demanding the trader compensates you for the recovery fee, then I can see you ending up in a prolonged dispute. The same applies to rejecting the car at this stage.

 

I am not suggesting that you do not have a possible case under the SOGA but it's far better than to compromise with the trader than have to resort in using the SOGA.

 

 

The problem is precisely that, if the battery was the problem I would be able to run the vehicle without any concerns, I could just push it with a 2nd gear engaged and it would start, but a faulty alternator does not generate any electricity, therefore the sparks will use battery power only, and once it drains the engines cuts out. Anyway I am paying the £40 only because I really need the car, and I want to sort out things in the best way possible.

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The problem is precisely that, if the battery was the problem I would be able to run the vehicle without any concerns, I could just push it with a 2nd gear engaged and it would start, but a faulty alternator does not generate any electricity, therefore the sparks will use battery power only, and once it drains the engines cuts out. Anyway I am paying the £40 only because I really need the car, and I want to sort out things in the best way possible.

 

Ahh, I do apologise... I missed/forgot that the alternator is the problem. In that case, I would ask the seller to consider authorising a local garage to fit/supply a exchange alternator and a new battery considering you have had this problem just 2 days after purchase. Otherwise in the spirit of good after sales, he may like to waiver the recovery fee to compensate your inconvenience.

 

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BLZ Well done for you.

Glad you got it sorted...... So not such a Trader after all. He did the right thing,

What happened about the battery?

 

F16

 

 

 

He just recharged it, I was told it was brand new so it should not have major problems, now it's just a matter of time to figure out if it's still good or if it has damaged cells, I will monitor the voltage within the next few weeks, but it seems alright for now, the engine cranks much quicker than before. If I have further problems I will let you know.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi again,

 

 

Well the problems have returned, fortunately the battery and alternator are healthy , but this time the engine light came on. I reckon it's nothing major as the engine still runs, however the engine almost stalls on red lights/stops which means that ECU is getting messed readings and struggles to keep engine running, the revs drop to 100RPM but then they return to 500 when idling. I suspect that it has a faulty oxygen/lambda sensor (common in Hondas) which will damage the catalytic converter. I went to the dealer so they could check the error and eventually sort the problem and they want to charge me £20 for the diagnostic, and the manager told me that it would be more expensive to do it on another garage (LOL??). I just drove away without diagnosing it so I can analyse my options before I get charged and the problem is not solved in the end. I bought the car 2 months ago and I did approx. 1500 miles.

 

 

I'm seriously considering in selling the vehicle because I believe it will be a barrel of problems within the next few months, which means this would be the last repair the dealer would perform in this vehicle, I just want it repaired so I can sell it, do you guys think that I have any chance on this?

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You bought a £700 car with 110k miles on the clock. It would be strange not to have problems with it. If the alternator was original, it would have been due to fail anywhere between 90-120k miles.

 

The problem you're getting with low rev's and cutting out sounds exactly like a faulty sensor. Most likely a mass air flow sensor. A diagnostic will find this error. Some times just reseating the sensor will solve it, but may need to be cleaned or replaced.

 

What is the model of the car?

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You bought a £700 car with 110k miles on the clock. It would be strange not to have problems with it. If the alternator was original, it would have been due to fail anywhere between 90-120k miles.

 

The problem you're getting with low rev's and cutting out sounds exactly like a faulty sensor. Most likely a mass air flow sensor. A diagnostic will find this error. Some times just reseating the sensor will solve it, but may need to be cleaned or replaced.

 

What is the model of the car?

 

 

It's an Accord 2.0 SE VTEC.

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